Check Matador’s backpacking gear guide for a full list of what to bring. 200 yards further on look for this wee bridge on your left and follow the trail to the chapel on the loch. You haven't climbed Ben Alder yet. Approaches are long from any direction; Corrour Station gives the nearest access from the west, whilst it is possible to approach from Loch Rannoch in the south. Many folk mountain bike in which seems a good idea, although when chatting to a man from the estate (more on this later) he said that mountain bikes are causing a lot of erosion problems on the smaller trails higher up. In hill walking circles, this bothy is supposed to be haunted, with… Five minutes after plunging in to the blackness of a fierce highland storm, I was chest deep in the blackness of a fierce highland peat bog, wishing I’d taken the time to don over-trousers and gaiters. Placing a rucsack under his knees for padding and support, we maneuvered him back into the bivvy bag, and with a sleeping mat under and his unzipped sleeping bag tucked around him he was ready for evacuation. Loads of fresh veg, real milk, 1lb of lamb, a bottle of red wine and a bottle of real drink. Head north. At the car I prised my sodden boots off, slipped on my trainers and hurtled down the road looking for a farm, with the groans of Bill, lying in the heather, still ringing in my ears. Amazingly, once settled in the survival bag on my mat, with a rucksack under my knees and another as a pillow I felt fine. Got to the bothy at 0805ish. Whats the track like, I’m wanting to try out my cross/touring bike with panniers. A hard walk (mountain (above 600m)) in Highland, Scotland, about 44.70km (27.78 mi) long with an estimated walking time of about 15:30h (1 overnight stay). Frank’s snoring was a great comfort, a kind of normality. mobile app. Continue along the shore. Ben Alder is one of the great remote mountains of Scotland, set in the very heart of the Central Highlands. ( Log Out / For some reason one image lodged in the memory, two grey figures like astronauts on the moon, simply titled “On the Ben Alder Plateau in deteriorating weather”. Height: 1148m Personality: Ben Alder has something for everyone, and it just might be the perfect all-round mountain. Map & Compass skills, appropriate wet weather clothing,and emergency kit are crucial when exploring the Scottish Highlands. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! Length (round trip): 11 mi/18 km Ben Alder Cottage. Tuck your pants in your socks. piece of machinery that we could manage under the libational circumstances. Glad you enjoyed it Albert, there are so many mountain and bothy tales out there. They vary in size, from small single-rooms to two-story cabins. For the first half of the hike, the landscape is a mixture of views and elements as the undulating terrain has many thick spruce woods and granite-capped hills. But somehow they found the hospital (of course there are signs). They usually have the same common features: a designated sleeping area, either an upstairs space or a raised platform to minimize sleeping in cold spots; no available bedding, beds, or mattresses; a fireplace; and a spade for burying human waste, as few have toilets. Location: Western Highlands Directing them was tricky. I didn’t know where we were and nor did they. It’s actually the roof of a bothy. Home » Mountain routes » Central Highlands » Ben Alder 6 Munros. As it was I did make the 7am BBC Scottish news and three lines in the Courier: ‘retired elderly man’. For Ben Alder, this gives the opportunity the tackle this … If the bothy is full then there is good camping ground either outside it or in the wood across the river. Always open, the 1870 bothy is small but well kept, with two rooms downstairs and some additional sleeping space in the attic. In Gaelic, Aonach Beag means "little ridge" despite it being a Munro. Location: Northern Highlands The mountains rise steeply on both sides of the valley. Covering some 68000 acres stretching from Loch Rannoch to Dalwhinnie. It seemed that Bill had stepped over a boulder and put his foot down a concealed hole in the peat; Frank thought that it was a simple below the knee fracture and he reported that Bill was fully conscious, in a secure position and not in unbearable discomfort. Do Not rely on any mobile phone or internet connection. Remarkable lads and well done to all concerned. When everything was ready, the winchman stood outside, watching as the engines revved up, checking that the wheels came clear of the boggy ground then jumping aboard with a final wave as the chopper lifted into a low hover. We set off at about 7am and followed the path. Worth thinking about? The hue is pervasive also because the island has very little vegetation, just a layer of grass. In fact, since its founding in 1965, the charity Mountain Bothy Association (MBA) oversees 100 bothies and their maintenance, offering detailed information such as locations and conditions. They are free to use although accessibility restrictions might apply depending mostly on the land usage, such as shepherding or deer stalking. Ben Alder sits proudly in the middle of the Grampian Mountains. To find out if that’s true, start from Rannoch Station along the West Highland Line railroad. Apparently, folk, probably reporters, listen in on short wave to police messages hoping to pick up exciting news. 1.The terrain that you have to encounter. Quickly, you work out that it’s going to be a long night. Difficulty: Medium. Frank and Trevor are very experienced mountain walkers and Trevor has been years in the Killin Mountain Rescue Team. Here is what you need to know about bothies, and some of our favorites to visit. As romantic as it sounds, though, most people don’t accidentally come across a bothy — that would be too much of a needle-in-a-haystack situation. I arrived in the smirr of a rapidly improving highland morning as the others were getting ready for a day on the hill. Frank and I were in bivvy bags, with our backs against a rock, sipping Bill’s whisky (medically unwise for him to drink), and, despite the intermittent rain we were reasonably comfortable. But at midnight, they added: "'Injured' walker remaining at the bothy with his friends. I tilted myself forward and a dreary moorland climb became a floodlit descent through an iridescent forest. The hike was simple but the reward is the south view towards Suilven, a contrast of dark shadows and bright grassy fields, as it’s always against the sun. “Crofting” is a Scottish traditional social setup of small-scale food production particular to the Highlands, so integral to Scottish culture to have its own commission. Frank led us back to the accident site without any problems, Bill had been told to blow a whistle when he saw torchlight coming and he was taking this advice very seriously – we could hear the noise from the bothy! Approaches are long from any direction; Corrour Station gives the nearest access from the west, whilst it is possible to approach from Loch Rannoch in the south. With a little bit of mist the view gets eerie; even more if you’re lucky and see a deer drinking from the river below. This includes personalizing content and advertising. The perhaps monotonous island makes for even greater contrast upon reaching the small bothy as this place is a meeting point of completely different views and natural features. Once you’ve passed Loch Druim on your right, the path is well marked and continues east and slightly south. Member. The Chapel. Not even I could get lost here without a map. On both sides the terrain rises steeply, and the rugged coastline is marked by rough rocks covered in grass and moss. “No, please not Inverness, that’s the wrong direction, I live in Callander!”. Suddenly, I was awake, sure that I could hear a helicopter coming up the loch, I scrambled out of my bivvy, only to be disappointed when I realised that the sound was Frank snoring, giving a creditable imitation of a Sea King at cruising speed. That’s the point. A single-story stone construction, it comfortably fits six people. ben alder bothy question. I wanted to savour this bit. Thirty five minutes and what seemed like a dozen farm houses later, I succeeded in finding a phone and raising the alarm. ( Log Out / Meanwhile, Donald and Johnny were poring over the map, working out an exact map reference and agreeing on the wording of the message that Johnny would take out to raise the alarm, then with our admonitions to ‘gang warily’ ringing in his ears, Johnny set off into the pitch dark and pouring rain, head-down for a quick traverse of the eight or nine miles back to the car. You hear it go. I had no intention of being unlucky on Ben Alder. And so the long wait and much thinking. It should be noted that the Mountain Bothies Association website says the lovely Culra Bothy is currently closed indefinitely due to asbestos. Setting off for Ben Alder. Ben Alder (Gaelic: Beinn Eallair) is the highest mountain in the remote area of the Scottish Highlands between Loch Ericht and Glen Spean. The Walk. I have been up there twice and it's a long walk, especially with the last part being a bit boggy. Walk Britain Loch Treig to Loch Ericht , hill-walk route & GPS track Ben Alder Sron Bealach Beithe Sron Coire na h-Iolaire Beinn Bheoil, ascent 980m, length 17.5km, creator melohara, Ben Alder and Beinn Bheoil from Culra MountainViews In character it has a bit of the West and a bit of the East. At midnight, Donald came back up with the promised soup and coffee, so we talked the situation over, our best estimate being that Johnny would reach Loch Rannoch side by 0030 hours and that organised rescue efforts would be initiated by 0100 at the earliest. Also difficult was the 45 minutes or so lying alone in the dark while Frank went on to the bothy to get the others. Road tour for a couple of nights would have … The second, a sudden and dramatic abatement of the storm and parting of the mist and clouds, and an unspeakably beautiful moonlight vista of Loch Rannoch and the surrounding hills. 9-11 hours (over 2 days) 750m. Unknown to many is how common ticks and midges can be. Midge bites are itchy and usually painful. 268th - Allan - walk in along Loch Ericht from Dalwhinnie. Good snow cover from 900m, dry with moderate winds but visibility reduced during day to 10m on Ben Alder summit. Incredibly long day at 15hr 8min, snow cover of streams made walk out to Culra bothy tricky. RGibbs: 16/02/2013 With the sum total of the navigational advice being “keep the loch on your left then turn right”, I left the accident scene, with Bill (who I’d never met before, or have since) moaning softly as Trevor “made him comfortable”. After crossing the river at the head of the loch, a quick check of the map and compass and a head dook and drink from the burn gave me an excuse for a breather. Donald arrived soon afterwards, with news that Frank and Bill were about 30 minutes behind and moving slowly over the very rough ground. Glad you enjoyed the tale Roy. Interesting to read the tale from several different viewpoints. Probably the finest way to explore Ben Alder and the neighbouring Munros is to be based by Culra Bothy for a couple of nights, taking in Ben Alder on one day and the Geal-Charn group on the other. In the past locals, primarily farmers or loggers, knew their locations, and in the present, hikers specifically aim for them by following maps. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. 30km/18.5 miles. A little further on, cross the Alder Burn via a footbridge to arrive at the bothy. Shortly after, you’ll cross a little bridge over Alder Burn Creek, and you’ll have the bothy in sight, overlooking a small semi-circular bay. While you can find some bothies in Scotland and Northern England, and even a few in Wales, Northern Ireland, and the Isle of Man. Difficulty: Medium. No sooner had I dropped off than I was rudely awakened by the headlights of a police Land Rover, in which I was soon interrogated by an affable policeman. It's the highest peak in a remote and rugged massif slap bang in the middle of the Scottish Highlands. Two will ‘o’ the wisps loomed out of the darkness, heading for the bothy, they assured me I was near the path so I ploutered on, knee-deep in muck, hoping I was sober enough to hit an 18 mile loch. Starting point: Rannoch Station For more information on how we use cookies consult our revised, For the perfect day of hiking and Colombian coffee, head to Jardín, The 11 hardest, most dangerous mountains to climb in the world, Miami is a gateway to outdoor adventure on water, wheels, or foot, The world’s 7 big cats and where to see them in the wild, The newest US national park is in West Virginia, Scotland’s Speyside Whisky Trail is a tough trek with delicious perks, Scotland becomes the first country to make period products free, The world’s most exciting place to drink gin is much more famous for its whisky, 8 gut-busting traditional dishes from Scotland to add to your bucket list, The 10 most otherworldly hikes on Scotland’s Isle of Skye, UK’s oldest tree is under dire threat from tourist attacks, This remote Scottish island is looking for a warden for its seaweed-eating sheep, The UK’s first whale sightseeing trail just opened in Scotland, The spots you actually need to see in the Scottish Northern Highlands, How to plan an island-hopping adventure through Scotland, 7 incredible British itineraries — London and beyond, A 480-mile trekking route is now open on Vancouver Island, 9 treks that showcase the Caucasus’ remote and rugged beauty, The 12,000-mile American Perimeter Trail will be the longest in the US, Get paid $20,000 to drink beer and hike the Appalachian Trail, I felt safer traveling to Aruba during the pandemic than I have in the United States in months, A luxury Thai hotel is offering year-long stays with daily cocktails, A Maldives luxury resort is offering unlimited stays for a whole year, You can now stay in this hotel room inspired by ‘The Queen’s Gambit’. Many have looked for it and failed – so don’t bother trying! Warm (thanks to Paramo clothing), but wet (I could not stop the rain dripping down my neck into the bag: rusty camp craft), my only real problem was the leg going into spasms and shaking like mad. Ben Alder is one of the most remote Munros. After being suitably enlightened, the constable arranged for the deployment of a helicopter which I had foolishly believed had been called out an hour earlier. I parked at Dalwhinnie and rode my bike in along Loch Ericht to Corrour bothy near Ben Alder. Access is never restricted. It’s also said to be haunted. Walk in to Ben Alder Cottage (aka McCook’s Bothy, after the last permanent resident), climb Ben Alder and Ben Bheil, do a little trout fishing and generally have a good time. Published on Sep 20, 2016. The walk follows the only road on the isle, which eventually splits into north and south directions about halfway through the walk. I found slow deep breathing cured that. The bothy itself is plush, boasting three rooms and even some bunk beds, but there’s also a resident spook, if the Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal is to be believed. Time to turn right. On board and away. The track ends but there is a clear trail to continue ahead, until you turn inland at a rocky knoll, or a small hill standing amidst flatter surroundings, called An Grianan. Our job done, we tidied up the accident site before trudging wearily down to the cottage, lit by the pre-dawn glow and with the full moon reflecting off the loch and lighting up the rocky ramparts of Sgairneach Mhor. 14. VF used to be good, for voice at least. The isle’s name comes from the ubiquitous hue of dark red color given by the iron ore present in the rocks. Stay in the bothy and climb the remaining Ben Alder 2 the next day, I biked back and drove home! Within seconds, it seemed, they were with me listening to Trevor’s report. Keep an eye on the weather forecast, although this is a general indication as the weather might change unexpectedly. Length (round trip): 6.2 mi/10 km Location: Central Highlands Starting point: Rannoch Station Length (round trip): 10 mi/16 km Difficulty: Medium. The plan for this bothy weekend was simple enough. The finest approach, however, is from Culra bothy to the northeast (accessed via a long walk-in or cycle from Dalwhinnie). Take the 80-minute ferry ride from Mallaigh to Kinloch on the western coast of the Isle of Rùm, south of the Isle of Skye. Two things are still with me from this stretch of the journey: The first, a gargantuan roar not twenty feet away in the cotton-wool gloom of the highest point of the moorland ‘path’, which prompted me to shout “I’m no’ a deer,” repeatedly, as my pace quickened to distance me from an irate and possibly lovesick stag. The hike there is only 2.2 miles (3.5 km) but along a steeper trail and among bogs. I assume they were walking Ben Alder and Beinn Bheoil because they were heading across the bridge and I met them again on the summit of Beinn Bheoil. The older, gray stone structure dating to 1871 is always open to the public while the dark timber addition is reserved. I find my Vodafone mobile can get a signal just about anywhere, especially in Scotland. The ambulance men had never been to Stirling (“we only go to Inverness”). I left the car at 0550 and returned to the car at 1850 having completed the round. You’ll follow the River Pean valley on the north side but from the forestry access track higher up. Research the route you’ll hike to know the types of terrain and the conditions of the paths, as well as elevation gain. To find out if that’s true, start from Rannoch Station along the West Highland Line railroad. Climbing Ben Alder was meant to be the climax of the Alder Trail, but when I woke the next morning and saw even more fresh snow on the ground outside the bothy, I made the immediate decision to stay in the glens. With poor visibility, mist at treetop level and intermittent heavy rain, helicopter extraction seemed increasingly unlikely and the remoteness of our location meant that land or water based approaches would take a long time to plan and implement. Ben Alder was a typical example, a huge upland area in the Central Highlands looking invitingly wonderful with it’s sweeping ridges and nearby Culra bothy. The bothy sits by a tiny crescent bay, the gentle slope ending by the pale gray pebble beach. This made for very interesting and also informative reading, the people concerned were marvellous and very efficient, I felt for them all but Johnny was incredible and deserves a special mention. It was one of those weekends for which the epithet “character building” was designed. You arrive at the southern tip of Loch Ericht where you can fish trout if you have time. End of Bill’s story in the Trauma Ward (28) of Stirling Royal. Also, there is a code that’s expected to be respected, which amounts to just being clean and considerate. The bothy is small but well kept, and a camping ground is available closer to the beach. I was different. More bare rocks are seen here among the fields, the grass dark brown or dark green depending on the season. During the relay the message had been misinterpreted as being, ‘the casualty is comfortably ensconced in the bothy’. Ben Alder Cottage is not just a bothy in the middle of the moors on the shore of a loch. Emergency in Belford Hospital was bedlam. Bill seemed to be cheerful enough, so after reviewing my mental first aid checklist (casualty conscious, lucid, able to explain what had happened, check for signs of head injury like obvious blood, contusion, pupils different size, etc), I gave a ‘hands-on’ examination. Ben Alder 6 Munros Bike and hike route up the Munros in Alder Forest including Ben Alder, Geal Charn and Beinn Eibhinn One of the finest ways to reach Ben Alder is a cycle down Loch Ericht followed by a circular route from Culra Bothy. Aonach Beag is a 1,116-metre (3,661 ft) mountain in the Highlands of Scotland in the remote area between Loch Ericht and Loch Laggan located about 4 kilometres (2.5 mi) northwest of Ben Alder.Its prominence is 99 metres (325 ft) with its parent peak, Geal-Charn, about 1 kilometre (0.62 mi) to the east. Predominantly, though, they’re found in the Scottish Highlands and are thus part of the local identity and the flair of the region. It’s slightly less breezy here, or windier, depending on the season. Time to get your luggage down but too late to tell anyone you’re arriving. The south and west views are treeless but peaceful. The last few miles passed in a dream. The best option is to layer with waterproof and insulating clothes. The parking is at the western edge of Loch Arkaig, surrounded by brownish and green fields devoid of trees and no rocky sides. sweepy. Difficulty: Easy. Johnny, skivvying in a way very familiar to Mrs McCook, had cooked a tasty lamb casserole and magicked up a bottle of Merlot to help the digestive processes along, and looking outside after the meal, I saw head torches glinting on the skyline as a party crested the last bluff and started the descent towards the bridge. Route notes: Challenging navigation and steep ground on the descent to the bothy make this route a little more serious in winter than you might expect. There isn’t much color variety, but fortunately a big stretch of woods starts after a few minutes, and you’ll walk immersed in trees for most of the time, a rare occasion in the Highlands. These backcountry lairs are favorite destinations, or stopping points along a longer trek, for lovers of wild nature and lonely places — as they can be quite secluded and accessed through a hard hiking trail. The police were by my bedside at 8am, only to check if I had informed next of kin. But in July last year the weather was so superb that I had to make an exception. Heavy rain earlier that morning meant that the river beside the bothy was in full flow, so the little timber bridge beside the bothy was very welcome, even a little scary to cross as the water thundered below, and, as the first to arrive, we had our pick of the accommodation, spread our gear out and soon had a fire going. Therefore, no matter how long the trip is to reach and stop at a bothy in the Scottish Highlands, you need to be self-sufficient and ready to handle adverse and unpredictable weather. 4.Most importantly for this generation of hillwalkers/climbers After scoffing a cracking meal, knocking back the plonk and making a fair sized hole in the wood pile (and the whisky) our best laid plans ganged agley at a hell of a rate! As a reminder, once at a bothy, follow the Bothies Code. Most are historic buildings restored to basic windproof and watertight standards, made available for the public. Starting off along the initial doubletrack section. The approach is enlivened by the dramatic Leachas ridges which offer some scrambling. It’s a long, narrow, one-story building in two parts. The walk is a challenging one for one night/two ... An Grianan. 2.The changeable weather. I made many visits to the cottage from 1980 to about 2000, a wonderful bothy with good trout fishing! After contouring above Ben Alder Lodge you cross the bridge with a gate. Culra bothy is closed due to the presence of asbestos so it is necessary to carry a tent and camp nearby. This makes for a constant roar — or “tumblin’ burn” as some call it — and in fact Guirdil’s name comes from the Norse Giùadal meaning “deep chasm.” On the horizon, the outline of the Isle of Canna stands high over the sea. Many hikers like walking sticks, but this is a personal choice depending on habit, fitness level, and route type. Head north towards Kilmory. For most of its length it’s flanked with thick vegetation in trees and underbrush, and the area is quite lush. It seemed that the message had been relayed around the force as they decided who’s patch the incident was on. Nature safari on Ben Alder. It requires an initial walk or bike ride on an off-road track of some nine miles from Dalwhinnie to Culra Bothy. Still need to go to Ben Alder cottage for a night sometime – one of the bothies I haven’t visited yet…. My goal for this mini expedition was to walk into Ben Alder Cottage bothy… Start from Lochinver, a small village on the coast, and follow the narrow road straight east. By definition, bothies are reachable only by foot, cycle, or boat, and they’re typically located near running water. Minimum gear and maximum grub! We settled in for the evening, sawing up the roots and wood thoughtfully left by previous visitors (an unforgivable sin is to leave the bothy without fuel for the next visitor) and preparing the evening meal. Ticks might carry Lyme Disease. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. A sergeant also appeared on the scene and contingency plans were made in case the weather was too bad for the chopper. It’s unlikely you’ll see any traffic. The pain comes later, but much worse is the feeling of sheer disgust with oneself. The route is easy until about 500 yards in when the track stops and you need to figure a way through roots, puddles, and tussocks. It’s not insulated, so it’s never warm inside but has plenty of firewood. Ben Alder Lodge. ( Log Out / Was this before mobile phones? Quite a few rivulets carve the green slopes on both sides. Length (round trip): 10 mi/16 km Check for the insects’ presence on or around you before picking a resting stop. Layers can be peeled off as needed although it’s never really warmer than 70°F (21°C). Objective achieved, it was a case of trotting on with the head torch off and the gale spewing froth from the loch in my face for the next two miles of boggy shore line. Vodaphone signal dissappearing is one sure way of telling your train is coming in to Pitlochry. Ice axe and crampons are required in snowy conditions. This one seemed to have more than its share of belligerent, abusive drunks giving the nurses and doctors a hard time. Tarf Hotel is awesome, but it's a rough walk-in with winter gear. I felt as if I was there with him slogging through the mire, so please it turned out well in the end. Not a bad place to spend a couple of weeks watching World Cup rugby. The view sweeps the length of the quiet Loch, its 14.5 miles (23.3 km) straight as a pin. I don’t usually do much of my hillwalking in summer. Scots Magazine, November 1984, which taken with various walking articles about the bothy e.g. ( Log Out / Easy walk-in and few Munros around. Extra rations of water and food are always a good idea. It was worse for the others. For our group, circumstances meant that on the day we divided into two parties, Johnny and I going in mid-afternoon, with Frank, Bill and Donald starting three hours behind. Carry repellants, a head net, and tweezers. Near the bothy we saw a few people heading for the hills in different directions, but soon we were on our own.. My foray on the hills however was restricted to the following day – the walk out! It’s also said to be haunted. Collecting the medical supplies and all of the spare petzl batteries we could find, we set off back up the hill in the dark and (isn’t Scotland predictable!) Frank said, “blow the whistle every 3 minutes”. Starting point: Loch Arkaig western tip Beyond the bothy, the terrain becomes more undulating and barren, rising up to the sandstone mountain towering over the area. Onto the stretcher across 50 yards of rough ground. Provisions were chucked into a rucksack (1 sleeping bag, 1 bivvy bag and 1 chocolate biscuit), torches were retrieved and maps were examined as we set off up the hill to find a “friend” who had just become a “casualty”.